Friday, 27 November 2009

Island Style- Sweden

The bus leaves Slussen at 12.05, I've slept too long. Should've gotten out there earlier, well the sun only did come up at 9, but still, it's already, or maybe still- low on the horizon. We drive over Danvikstull, I look over the side of the bridge, remembering summer days next to the water, throwing boule and drinking beer. Neverending sunlight. Nobody there now.

I've put Arvo Pärts Spiegel im Spiegel on repeat in my iPod, and I live this film of muted Autumn colours, glassy ice cold lakes... 40 minutes later I jump off at Brunn, the final stop for the bus. Stina careers around a corner in a small borrowed car and I jump in. She's wearing gumboots, I'm so happy. It's like seeing myself again after a long time, I guess that's how it is in a way, our closest friends are like safeboxes, we keep parts of ourselves safely locked up in them.


The roads get smaller and smaller, no more tar here, forests all around us, the distances between the houses get bigger. We park the car, Stina half-hides the key in it's half-hidden hiding place, this is an island... a safe place, so hidden, no need to hide.

We walk along the ever narrowing road, until it's more or less a path, and where it ends... is Stina's house. A small perfect wooden house with great big glass windows looking out over the baltic sea. There's a large wooden deck and a view that stops the clock...


Stina's lively brown Kelpy-dog Disa is overjoyed to see us, so we make a quick cup of coffee, and start walking.

There are scraggly bushes on the hill around the house, we make our own path to the long wooden staircase down to the sea. Majestic old oak trees stand naked on the hillside, moss covers the granite rocks scattering the slope.

The small beach is deserted, seaweed lying in heaps on the sand. The wooden jetty juts out into the sea, the echoes of summer swimmers laughing and jumping still hanging in the air. It is dead quiet.

It's 2 o'clock and the sun is low on the horizon.



We play on the jetty, throwing sticks for Disa, looking down into the crystal freezing water. Not even I feel like swimming.


Today the sea is not calling my name... or maybe I'm just not listening...

Friday, 13 November 2009

The ocean eats my Words

So this blog is supposed to be about my freediving and my life 'lived in love with the ocean', right? And the last few months have been full of incredible ocean adventures... but you wouldn't know that, cause i haven't been blogging!! What's with that?
And now I'm sitting here in a cafe in Gothenburg, Sweden, called Fröken Olsson- seeing my first snow in many months, snuggled into my new warm thick needed scarf- and I decide to write.

So this gets me thinking... and you know what it is?
The ocean eats my Words!

When diving, surfing, climbing, swimming- living the life I do in Cape Town, I live in my body in my heart... a wordless state of physical being.
But Sweden gets me back into my head- and I write. And this is a good thing.
I'm here to finish my film I've been working on for four years, a very very personal non-oceanic adventure in self discovery. 'White as Blood'. A film about being white in South Africa today.
And yes, I had to leave Cape Town, leave the waves, the seals, animal ocean and all that is sea, to focus on this story I'm telling.

I'm here for a month, and when done I hope to come back to CT with new words, a sense of accomplishment, no tan and a FILM, at long long last!


Words words words of seperation politics... my words for now!

Tuesday, 6 October 2009

EARTHWAVE!

Sunday was EARTHWAVE day! Over 400 people signed up to try break the Guinness World Record for how many surfers on one wave. The old record was somewhere just over 100, so we had our work cut out for us. First we all lined up along the beach, hundreds of people and hundreds of boards... and in we plunged. Paddling out through mercifully calm and small Muizenberg waves. What an unbelievably heartwarming experience, to be so many people focused together on one very simple goal: Standing Up.

With a whoop and a shout we took off- and there I stood, happy and proud on my board, with over a hundred people with me. We whooped and cheered like kids as the wave carried us forward. Back out to the backline, wait for the next wave... go go GO!! PADDLE!
120 people on one wave!!


Monday, 14 September 2009

Golfinos! Golfinos!

Saturday saw a sleepy Hanli drag her weary body out of bed at 5 in the morning, still dark- cold and a little misty. Quick shower to wake up... fins, suit, weights and water. Let the adventure begin!

Together with Danish diver friends Morten and Astrid I arrived at Steve's house, bundled into his bakkie and headed north, his big beautiful ANIMAL OCEAN boat behind us. We arrived at Yzerfontein on the West Coast just after sunrise, kitted up, launched the boat and headed into the mist.

As we sped over the green-blue water, I remembered my first real dolphin encounter, on the Azores, the beautiful Portuguese Islands slap bang in the middle of the Atlantic on your way west. I spent a magical month there some years ago, diving with a passionate oceanman called Norberto. And every time I see a dolphin I hear Norberto's voice echoing in my head- 'Golfinos! Golfinos!' Portuguese for Dolphins. And from that first cry of GOLFINOS to today, I just love these happy, friendly, crazy, athletic, smart, lively, naughty, intuitive MAMMALS!

So as the first cry went up- 'There they are!' I was ready! Dolphins all around us. My first experience of Dusky Dolphins, beautiful, small agile little friends coming up close, scanning me up and down, double take 'who are you, funny girl'? And so we play. Until they decide to continue their mystical mission and leave us stranded silly in the middle of the sea, still smiling sheepishly, harldy believing that yes, once again I've had the privilege of encountering some of my favourite friends!

Video taken by Steve from ANIMAL OCEAN, check his site for more pics and ocean adventures!



We start up again and headed further out to sea.
Dassen Island.
A small flat island covered with seals, penguins, pelicans and other smaller birds. The water around the island teems with shark-life, fish and kelp forests. The visibility was over ten meters- glorious! Steve shot a yellowtail and a Hottie, and Danish Morten shot his very first African fish!

Wednesday, 9 September 2009

Big Waves Big Lungs Part 2

There is something about people who truly love the ocean. I'm not sure what it is, a certain whatchamacallit... depth?

The last few weeks I've spent time with Cape Town's Big Wave Surfers (yes all those capital letters are much deserved!) and what a pleasure. Earnest, honest, vibrant ocean people who seek to better themselves, their performance and they really do love the sea!

So this past Sunday saw me once again with a group of passionate people, giving and receiving in equal doses. Like last time, I was impressed by the mixture of physicality, mental focus and willingness to learn.

Breathe, breathe breeeeathe... and hold... yes, that's a contraction!!

Telling them about the Mammalian Dive Response, man I love it!
(Chris Bertish, Cecilia Liebenberg, Jean Holmes, Sean Holmes)

James Taylor, Steve Benjamin, Barry Futter, Greg and Chris Bertish getting ready to dive.

C'est moi!

Thanks to Kimi Stewart for the pics and good company, and huge thanks as always to Steve Benjamin for great boat, great skippering and the best smile in town:



Wednesday, 2 September 2009

A day in False Bay!

This is False Bay... a shore entry just south of Millers Point... and there they are- Cowsharks, Puffadder Shy Sharks, and all other fish and friends.

Images speak louder than words and all that, so herewith a little film by best skipper and ocean -friend Steve Benjamin from Animal Ocean, your non-stop shop for all and any marine adventures!!



Video of me and Craig McKune herding Cowsharks!

Sunday, 30 August 2009

Big Waves and Big Lungs

Winter is happening in Cape Town, and with it comes sunny days and huge huge SWELL! Breaks like Dungeons and Sunset are Big Wave breaks on Cape Town's Atlantic side. Mountains of energy come rolling through the ocean, almost invisible in the distance, then suddenly this far-traveled visitor hits the reef and raises up like a prehistoric creature, building higher and higher before pitching forward... a magnificent wall of water. First time I saw it my stomach lurched, my heart flipped and I uttered some involuntary expletives.

Since that first day I've spent some awe-inspiring days on the water in Steve's boat (Animal Ocean) getting to know the conditions, the waves... and the men who ride them!
Yes, this is the playground of the Riders of Giants.
They paddle out on long pointed boards, wait, watch, breathe... and charge! Careering down a living mountain, seconds of pure living.

I have long believed that the training I've been doing the last ten years of my life, for fun, will be applicable to these guys- for survival. So last week I taught a bunch of these amazing surfers a course I've developed for them, Surprise Apnea.


Andrew Marr, Simon Lowe, Reinhart Fourie, Jaques Theron and James Taylor did some amazing breath-holds and beautiful dives. They seemed to really get a lot out of it, and over the next few weeks I'll be teaching the others: breathing, relaxing, mammalian dive response, what happens in your body when you're held down with NO air left in your lungs. These men inspire me with their incredible courage, joy and love of life, I feel privileged to share their journey with them.



Grant "Twiggy" Baker riding Sunset.


Pics: Steve Benjamin and Kimi Stewart